Every year, winemakers, vineyard managers and owners answer the critical question; ‘when is the right time to pick?’ This decision can make or break the vintage. There are a multitude of factors that the winemaking team has to take into account, and all of them play a role in the decision.
There are only a handful of people in the world who have more experience making this decision than Heidi Barrett. Adopt a Grape recently published a video of Heidi talking about how she makes the decision to pick. Enjoy.
The 2008 San Luis Obispo Wine Industry Awards were recently announced at the California Mid-State Fair. The awards are organized by the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance, Grape Growers of Paso Robles, and the San Luis Obispo Vintners Association. These awards are particularly prestigious in California Wine Country because the honorees are nominated and voted for by other members of the local wine industry.
William Sheffer of Halter Ranch Vineyard was named Winemaker of the Year. Before leading the winemaking team at Halter Ranch, Mr. Sheffer made wine for several other notable San Luis Obispo County wineries, including, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, Eberle Winery, and Adelaida Cellars.
Ric Fuller of Shimmin Canyon Vineyard was awarded the title Wine Grape Grower of the Year. His past experience includes working for Paul Masson Vineyards as well as planting the only privately owned research vineyard in San Luis Obispo County. Fuller was a founding member of the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance.
The Wine Industry Person of the Year was awarded to Jerry Lohr, founder of J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines. During the late 1960s, Dr. Lohr was one of the first people to recognize San Luis Obispo County’s potential as a world-class winemaking region. In 1971, he planted his first vineyard in the Arroyo Seco AVA.
Dennis T. Collins was honored with the Lifetime Achievement Award (posthumously). Over his career, he worked with many of California’s best known wineries including Gallo, Franzia, and Bronco Wine Company. He founded Big Red Vineyard in 1996, and also began working as the General Manager for Treana Vineyards in 2002.
Wine is big business in San Luis Obispo County, and contributes approximately $1.8 billion a year to the local economy. Over 1 million tourists visit the wine region annually.
For centuries, wine has been associated with regions because it is such a distinguishing factor of character and quality. Very few would argue that the location grapes are grown does not make a difference (except maybe Fred Franzia). The issue of labeling wine with a specific region has become a little contentious in California lately, and Calistoga is a major battleground.
In 2005, Bo Barrett of Chateau Montelena petitioned the Federal Government to create a Calistoga AVA in Northern Napa Valley. Based on the TTB’s criteria for AVA creation, he had a perfectly legitimate case. Calistoga certainly has a history of producing distinctive wines based on soil, climate, and other physical factors.
But Barrett’s proposal stirred up quite a controversy, namely with Calistoga Cellars. This winery has built an established brand name around the region, but does not use the required 85% of Calistoga grapes in their wines. Calistoga Cellars vehemently opposes the creation of the Calistoga AVA, because if it goes through, they will have to either change their brand name or start using the required amount of Calistoga grapes.
The Federal Government responded to this dilemma by suggesting considerable changes to the current wine labeling laws. More broadly, they fundamentally called into question the significance that place of origin has on resulting wines. This has reignited the ongoing battles between brand-centric and terroir-centric wineries.
Barrett admirably wants to preserve the accurate portrayal of geography on wine labels. Local terroir gives artisanal wines their character, and this should be protected. Barrett has some powerful allies, including the Napa Valley Vintners.
According to Richard Mendelson, attorney for the Napa Valley Vinters, “When consumers buy a bottle of wine in a restaurant, order off the list and see Calistoga Cellars, they’re going to think it’s from Calistoga.” This is a valid point and pretty much sums up why regional names should be protected.
At the same time, it is also understandable that Calistoga Cellars will not relinquish their name brand or alter the makeup of their wines without a fight. But because so many wines are marketed largely on their region of origin, it is misleading to the customer to falsely claim an association with a region that does not exist.
A possible solution might be for the federal government to disallow the use of any region on a wine label that does not meet the required 85% of grapes to be labeled as such, but fairly compensate existing wineries that will be affected. In the future, they should prohibit any winery naming themselves after a region unless they meet the AVA’s requirements.
But this would not account for wineries that are named after future AVA’s that do not yet exist, so a remedy would need to be devised for these situations as well. America does not have an exceptionally long history of wine production, and in many cases, the distinctions between regions are just starting to crystallize. This is clearly a difficult issue and will likely require considerable mediation and litigation to be resolved.
According to the Wine Institute, sales of California wine reached another new height in 2007. Fueling this growth is America’s increasing taste for premium wine over the past decade.
In 2007, the total volume of wine sold in the United States was 457 million gallons, a 2% increase from 2006. The retail value of all wine sold in the U.S. rose even more sharply to $18.6 billion, a 6% increase.
“Strong consumer interest, along with growing retailer and restaurant support and more direct-to-consumer sales, is resulting in wider distribution and selection of California wines. The new California tourism TV advertising campaign is also raising consumer awareness of the state’s diverse wine regions, its talented families, and its outstanding wine and food offerings.” -Robert P. Koch, CEO of the Wine Institute
Although still a relatively small part of the market, direct sales grew a very substantial 7.4% in 2007. Over 90% of California wine is still distributed by wholesalers, but many wineries are successfully developing direct to consumer sales channels.
U.S. wine exports also hit a record high in 2007. Total volume rose 8.6% to 120 million gallons at a price of $951 million, a 12% increase. California Wine Country was responsible for 95% of the United States’ wine exports last year.
Assemblymember Noreen Evans (D – Santa Rosa), chairwoman of the Assembly Select Committee on Wine, has introduced Assembly Bill (AB) 1964 to facilitate the sale of donated wine at non-profit events. State Senator Pat Wiggins (D – Santa Rosa) co-authored the bill. If AB 1964 passes, non-profits will be able to hold more wine events and bureaucratic red tape will be lessened.
In order to hold events involving wine auction, wine tastings, and wine dinners, non-profits must apply for and receive a receive a temporary alcohol license. Currently, non-profits can only obtain one each year, but if the bill passes, that number will be raised to three.
“Wine is part of our culture in California. But current law puts obstacles between non-profits and our wine industry. This bill will help non-profits cultivate stronger ties with an industry which has set a high standard for compassion,” Evans said.
The bill would also allow wineries to donate wine to non-profits up to 60 days before they acquire a temporary alcohol license. Since the licenses are normally given out only a few weeks before the event, it can cause a logistical nightmare for non-profits to receive and process donations in such a short period of time.
The 1976 Paris Tasting was a defining moment is the history of California Wine Country. The performance of Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Napa Valley Chardonnay and Stags Leap Wine Cellars’ 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon brought California Wine to the world stage.
This David vs. Goliath story seems like it came out of a Hollywood studio rather than a wine competition. No one in the right mind thought that the California Wines stood a chance against the French. This kind of drama is fit for the silver screen.
Paved by the success of “Sideways,” “Bottle Shock” delivers the story of the 1976 Paris Tasting from the perspective of Chateau Montelena. To the delight of the wine world, “Bottle Shock” debuted at the 2008 Sundance film festival.
In his first feature, director and co-writer Randall Miller put together the story of father-son Jim and Bo Barrett, owners of Chateau Montelena, in their journey from unknown vintners to international stardom. The story also features an unknown Latino winemaker and a love interest that add drama to their epic journey.
Owner Jim Barrett, played by Bill Pullman, runs Chateau Montelena in search of the perfect Chardonnay. The story documents his struggle characteristic of the California Wine Industry during that time. Jim’s son Bo Barrett, played by Chris Pine, lives his life like he is on permanent holiday.
In France, Steven Spurrier, played by Alan Rickman, is a struggling wine shop owner. Spurrier’s only customer Maurice, notices that California Wines are starting to turn heads and suggests a competition. The contest was to pit the outright world leader in fine wine production against California, a region that was unproven on the international stage.
This set the scene for the ultimate showdown in Paris. The saga is played out with side plots and a love triangle in their journey to the wine competition. It’s about time that attention is brought to this story, it was a defining moment that made California Wine what it is today.
With California is facing a $14 billion budget deficit, politicians and public policy groups are looking for ways to make up for the shortfall. One proposal is to increase the tax on distilled liquor, beer and wine.
The Marin Institute, an alcohol industry watch-dog, is one of the major proponents of this plan. According to Bruce Livingston, the group’s executive director, “Raising the alcohol tax for the first time in 16 years is a commonsense and fiscally responsible option to help close the budget gap. A simple 25 cents per drink increase would generate almost $3 billion in revenue.”
This potential revenue stream would make up about 20% of California’s budget deficit. While the plan sounds like it would make good financial sense for the state, it would essentially amount to a sin tax for all alcohol consumers, including the vast majority that drinks responsibly.
An illness is infecting Syrah vines through California, causing concern amongst many winemakers. Although no one knows for sure what is causing the ailment, many experts believe it may be what is known as “Syrah Decline” in France. Syrah Decline has been affecting France since the early 1990s, but seems to be even more potent in California.
This development is particularly worrisome given the rising popularity of Syrah amongst California wine producers and consumers. Plantings of the grape have increased by over 2000% over the past decade bringing total acreage to about 19,000.
Infected vines develop red leaves far too early in the growing season, (usually July or early August). This inhibits grapes from ripening properly and leads to low sugar and acidity levels, poor yields, and lightly colored wines. Most vines suffering from Syrah Decline will die within 10 years.
The cause of Syrah Decline is not completely understood, but many believe that vines that are very water stressed are particularly susceptible. Vineyards planted in shallow soils in arid climates seem to be affected the most. The ailment may also be affecting some Zinfandel and Mourvedre vineyards, but to a lesser degree.
On December 1st, Spring Mountain’s Newton Vineyards will be hosting an open house from 1 – 5 pm. They will be pouring large format wines as well as some library selections. In addition to the wine, there will be some gift ideas for the holidays, including packages, accessories and books. The event is free to Newton Vineyard wine club members, and is $20 for everyone else. To RSVP, call 707-204-7622.
Event at Domain Chandon
On Sunday, December 9th, Napa Valley’s Domain Chandon is going to host their “Savvy Entertaining” event from 4 – 7 pm. This event will offer special deals on their sparkling and still wines, and also good ideas for holiday gift items. The author and judge of the Savvy Entertainer contest will be there to offer tips on to host a savvy party on a limited budget.
Hanukkah at Judd’s Hill Winery
Keeping with the holiday there, Judd’s Hill Winery is planning to host “Hanukkah Hootenanny” on December 9th. The event will take place from 12 – 4 pm at the winery. Like most events, it is free for wine club members, but is $40 for all others. You can sign up for the wine club on the spot, which provides an excellent opportunity to join a great wine club and save money.
Open House at Raymond Vineyards
In other news, Raymond Vineyards is going to hold a wharehouse sale and open house on December 1st. The sale will take place form 10 am to 4 pm at the winery. If you are a fan of Raymond Vineyards, this is your chance to stock up on their wines for the holiday season.
According to the California Department of Food and Agriculture, the state’s 2007 grape harvest weighed in at 3.2 million tons, up a bit from 3.1 million tons last year. It is still substantially smaller than 2005, which weighed 3.5 million tons.
Because of inconsistent temperatures and weather patterns, grape picking was sporadic in 2007. Temperatures were warm through August, but September saw some rain, forcing many vineyard owners to delay picking their grapes until things had dried out a bit.
Fred Holloway, winemaker at Justin Vineyards, said, “It ended up being a fairly lengthy harvest, letting us pick on a slow pace through the first part of November. It was kind of a laid-back harvest.”
Despite the irregular weather, many vintners are optimistic about the quality of California’s 2007 vintage. Cool temperatures toward the end of the growing season gave grapes time to develop varietal characteristics without acquiring too much sugar.
The UC Davis Viticulture and Enology Department received a donation of $12.5 million that will fund projects in dire need of money. This donation came at a very important time in enology and viticulture research, as Australia is spending more than five times than the United States.
The donation was made my one of the Napa Valley’s oldest wine families. The Rossi family has been growing grapes in the Napa Valley since 1905, when Fred and Rachel Rossi purchased St. Helena Ranch. The Rossi’s sold their grapes to some of the most famous producers in the Napa Valley; Robert Mondavi Winery and Krug Winery.
Louise, the daughter of Fred and Rachel Rossi was a long time supporter of UC Davis. She showed her loyalty to the university as she gave the institution the funds resulting from the sale of her 52-acre ranch. The gift will also fund the development of the Robert Mondavi Institute of Wine and Food Science.
The late Louise Rossi never married, and died without heirs. She was dedicated to sustainable farming, so it is no surprise that most of the funds will be spent on researching organic and sustainable farming techniques.
The Rossi Ranch was purchased by Frog’s Leap Winery. Louise Rossi and Frog’s Leap owner John Williams became friends when the winery begin buying grapes from Rossi’s property. Before her death, Louise Rossi made plans to sell her ranch to Frog’s Leap, as their organic farming philosophy was in tune with her views.
This donation is incredibly important for the UC Davis Viticulture and Enology department. With the difficulty in getting projects funded, the donation could not have come at a better time.
Harvest can be a beautiful time for winery owners, viticulturalists and winemakers. When conditions are right, the fruit comes off exactly as planned, and the vineyard staff can exert full control over the entire process.
However, when conditions take a turn for the worse, like this year, it can ruin a years worth of hard work. Right around harvest time in the Napa Valley, a storm front blew through that dropped temperatures and even rained. Cold and rain can devastate a perfectly good crop of fruit.
As the storm front approached, many wineries who had not harvested yet, went on high alert and scrambled to get all of their fruit off the vine. It is pretty rare that people who don’t work in the wine industry to experience this process. But thanks to Adopt a Grape, you can see what it’s like for a winery at harvest.
If you haven’t already heard of Adopt a Grape, you should check it out. Its functionality is just what you would expect from the title, when you sign up, you actually adopt a grape in their vineyard, and you get video updates of how your grape is doing. You can check out their harvest video here; or watch it below.
The Napa Valley Vintners will donate $8.8 million to several charities at a ceremony to be held at Copia on November 3rd. Beneficiaries include non-profits focusing on affordable housing, healthcare and youth services.
The funds were raised by the Napa Valley Vinters’ flagship event, Auction Napa Valley 2007. Earlier this year, they pledged to donate $5 million a year over the next 5 years. The Napa Valley Vintners have clearly exceeded their most optimistic goals, and the local community will benefit from this success.
Since Auction Napa Valley was initiated, it has raised an incredible $78 million. Past recipients of these funds have been the Children’s Health Initiative, Clinic Ole, Napa Emergency Women’s Shelter, Healthy Moms and Babies, and Sister Ann Dental Clinic.
The Napa Valley Vintners was established over 70 years ago and currently has over 300 member wineries. Their mission is to promote the Napa Valley Appellation and preserve its long and storied history of producing wine.
The complexity and absurdity of the three tier distribution system is something that the average consumer rarely thinks about. And rightly so, who cares how it gets to your grocery store or favorite restaurant, right? What matters is that your favorite wines are there ready for you to buy and drink at any moment.
However, the issues of the three tier system have a huge affect on the wineries, and the selection you have as a consumer. A perfect example of this situation playing out was the trial between Michael-David Winery and distributor Frank-Lin Distillers. After five weeks of trial, the jury ruled in favor of Michael-David Winery, which protected wineries rights against distributors.
According to John Hinman of Hinman & Carmichael LLP, Counsel for Michael-David Winery, “Without this decision, California vintners would have found themselves at the mercy of distributors who would, in effect, become entitled to a significant portion of the winery’s brand value and the winery owner’s equity simply because the distributor had delivered the product.”
So what does this mean for you? Unless you work in the wine industry, not much. But it is a step in the right direction, protecting wineries against distributors. Hopefully, victories like these will help put the power back into the hands of the wineries. Thus increasing your selection of wine, and making everyone happy, except for the distributors of course.
Want a wine industry veteran’s take on this trial? Check out Jeff Lefevere of Good Grape here.
A new line of wines recently launched as part of a fundraising campaign to fight breast cancer. Cleavage Creek wines feature models that are survivors of the disease that affects millions of women world wide.
Winery owner Budge Brown said, “My goal was to honor their courage and inspire them.” Brown started this campaign after his wife of 48 years died from breast cancer. Cleavage Creek wines will cost between $18 and $50, and will debut this month, with the release of 2,000 cases. 10% of the proceeds of the wine will go to breast cancer awareness.
Unfortunately, several studies have shown that wine consumption actually increases your chances of getting breast cancer. “Dr. Smith-Warner et. al. from Harvard studied the association between alcohol consumption and Breast Cancer. Their results showed a linear increase in breast cancer over a wide range of consumption.”
However, because of the complexity of cancer, it’s difficult to say definitely that wine causes breast cancer. But several studies have shown this, and it is not something that should be ignored. And it is, somewhat ironic, that Mr. Brown is selling wine to help cure breast cancer.
Pattie Daly Caruso, a breast cancer survivor and advocate of Cleavage Creek wines thinks it’s a great idea. Caruso, like many others feel that this campaign is a cleaver way to draw attention to wine and breast cancer awareness.
Caruso does recognize the link between breast cancer and wine, stating, “if we pick up a magazine or turn on TV there will be someone saying something about all the things that we drink except maybe water. I personally think that a couple of glasses of red wine are very good for you. I try to be very cautious and do the right thing, but red wine to me is, if not medicinal, pretty wonderful.”
Despite the association between the two, what Brown is doing is commendable. It is critical that we spend more money on researching cures for diseases like cancer. They take a tremendous toll on our society, and there should be more people like Brown doing what they can to help.
Harvest Decisions: When is the Right Time to Pick?
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